DAY 1: Atherton to Mount Garnet (and Oh yes there were hills)

Distance ridden today: 104.5km
Estimated to go: ~2650km
Pain factor: Well, maybe a 9 for the first 30kms, then a 7 for the rest so let’s call it an 8.
Up: 1497m
Down: 1575m
Calories: 4,293 (yes, if you want to eat what you want and still lose weight, do something stupid like ride from Cairns to Canberra).
Something I learnt today: With dongers, it isn’t about to size, but how you use them (read on).

So surprisingly, I slept like an absolute boss last night. WIN 2: Fitted sheet with a holder to keep the blow-up pillow in place. One thing I also need to find my mojo with is unpacking and re-packing the panniers, weight distribution I mostly had right sorted, but I kept forgetting where I placed things, but I am gradually getting to an order of where I want everything. I had bought a front handlebar bag, but that was more pain than gain so I gave up on that. The new Rockbros rear panniers I bought (which I will give a write up on performance) are also 27 litre rather than my old 20’s so they have been great.

I fully expected today to be one of the harder ones as I knew there was climbing and the first 30km delivered. Big undulations with a climb mid-way (maybe 2x Mt Keira for those that know it). This majorly slowed me down with the all the weight (weight matters on climbs, not so much flats. I’ll get to that later).

I didn’t realise the North Queensland tablelands were so large (and high). I thought they were just hills behind Cairns. Atherton is about 700 metres above sea level (and a lot cooler than Cairns). I got as high as 1100 metres (which for those keeping score is just lower than Thredbo Village.

I am travelling with a Garmin 530, and here is proof of the elevation.

You will notice the somewhat lacklustre average speed. So for now, I have decided NOT to pause the Garmin when I take breaks as I’d like to see overall how many km’s I cover in a day INCLUDING breaks so I can plan days better in future. The day ended at about 13km/h, but I do expect that to increase a bit as the North Queensland tablelands make way for the much flatter interior (plus yes, I did need more breaks with the hills.

First bigger stop of the day was Herberton (and no, I didn’t find Herbert). Here is a bit of an idea of “The Rig”, but I know this will change in time – I am lacking an easy access feed holder up front now I have ditched the bag (I am unlikely to come across anything remotely like a bike shop for several days so I am sure I will “Jimmy” something up. Speaking of which, I have already improvised. I took off my rear-mirror which attaches to the drop on the bars. This thing has been GOLD in my training rides giving me much more confidence when I the open roads to spot approaching cars. Basically, I couldn’t screw the thing back into the thing after I arrived (and riding from the airport to Cairns proved how much I look at it, and on today’s ride I am sure I looked at it over a thousand times. It’s excellent, I just glance down below my arm. So useful item 1 I brought: electrical tape. Job done. It will probably stay like this the rest of the ride (unless I come across a bike shop in these parts.

Not much going on in Herberton, though they did have a spy and camera museum which I guess ordinarily draws the crowds, but not today.

Oh and hey Dad, they have those windmilly spinny things up here in Northern QLD as well!

And oh yeah, on wind. I f*&king HATE headwinds. Miles worse than hills (hills are like an achievement, with a reward at the other side). Headwinds exist purely to annoy the shit out of you and you will hear me getting very most cranky about them on this ride. Today was windy, mostly from the East but it moved around quite a bit and actually wasn’t too bad for the day. Near the top of the hill I had a break for some biscuits and ended up smashing out a whole pack of Scotch fingers.

Today’s ride was quite interesting too from a scenery ride. The first 50km or so were very lush forest (very similar to the Nasho run in Sydney). Warning signs were also not your normal kangaroo ones. They warned of Cassowaries. Like all Aussie wildlife, they are dopey when it comes to roads. Though one should be warned in general about them. See one. Run. They are likely to head but you unconscious, rip your intestines out with their claws, and then do their little Cassowary dance on your grave. Anyway, the scenery gradually turned into something more like you would expect as you dare go more than 100km of the Aussie coastline. Dense forest made way for open scrubland.

At about the 40km mark I turned onto the Kennedy Highway which is to be my home for the next 280 off km’s. I also passed through a 3-horse town (yes literally 3 horses per the below picture), whose claim to fame is the highest town in Qld at an amazingly lame 1100 metres (I guess 3000kms south it may get snow). More food. More water.

Another very useful (and soon to me much more useful) was the 10 litre collapsible water pack (which I know will be much more useful in coming days). Alas, water is heavy, so it is a game in judging how much to fill it up before the next reliable water stop.

I booked some accommodation in Mount Garnet, a “donger” as they are known in these parts (a basic demountable). This one had aircon and a small bathroom which was most awesome. Not much in Mount Garnet. The local petrol station tripled as a feed and small grocery shop. Being quite north, the sun goes down rather quickly, but I was presented with a nice sunset followed by the Milky way in all is awesomely awesomeness.

So I parted with some decent coin for a good tent and floor mat, so after having to pack it wet, I have it out to dry overnight on my donger. I mean, the donger.

Oh, and here is my donger. It’s a small donger, but as they say, it is more about how you use it which from the previous picture, I am using it well.

Ok so the next few days are going to be interesting, there is 3/5 of eff all for the next 419kms to the next major town – Charters Towers. There is a place called Greenvale which is basic (I guess like Mount Garnet) and I know where there are roadhouses and at about the 100km mark is a remote “adventure resort” (if you can call it that), but it is 5-10kms off the main road. It’s at about the 100km mark so could be good but I’ll be well stocked up when I leave tomorrow and will expect to do some “stealth camping” if the body is up for more or less km’s.

I also packed two rather odd things to take on a bikepacking adventure, one planned, one by accident. To keep you guessing and glued to this blog in antipation, I will share with you soon.

Oh and sorry if updates are sporadic over the next few days, going walk, I mean ride-about.

Justin.